cam for small block chevy 383?
i need a loud cam for the 383 stroker im making could someone tell me what kind i should get but needs to be within 200 bucks
I am a cam designer/manufacturer. If your engine has 5.7 connecting rods, run a cam with a 110 Lobe Separation angle. Otherwise, you'll have a very explosive and peaky power band. If it has 6 inch rods, then 108. If you run any wider LSA than these, you'll also serve to calm down the idle somewhat and that's going to hurt your sound since that's what you're looking for, among other things.
Put a solid flat tappet cam in there with at least 276 advertised duration on the intake and 284 advertised on the exhaust, This will give you about 520-540 lift with a 1.5 ratio rocker arm, and about 245/255 duration at .050. The engine will make great power from about 2000-6500 RPM with a good 4bbl carb, good valve springs, and a good exhaust system. And you will have PLENTY of sound and chop. You'll also kick the crap out of just about any hydraulic cam you can throw at it but still have an engine that has great acceleration, etc.
If you set the lash right and use the right components, I can show you how you can run the solid lifters on the street and you might touch them once a year as opposed to the stories people tell you. Those stories are a result of using cheap parts and also rocker arm adjusting nut back offs because most people have no idea how to properly set a Poly Lock and hence the nut just backs off. I've seen people set them and knowing it was the wrong way to do it, I told them "now fire it up with the valve cover off and watch the nut back off the stud right in front of you. There is your valve lash adjustment issue."
The solid lifter cam has far more valve opening intensity than a Hydraulic.
With lifters included, I'll run you about $250. $300 if you want the 4/7 firing order swap. You can also ask for a cam which is ground using a "P-55" core. You'll pay a little more for it but the nickel content is greater and therefore the wear durability.
You need to be aware that 95% of all the mega mass produced cam kits out there with lifters in them are re-boxed Chinese lifters which are s**t. I only use a U.S made lifter. Incidentally, there is only once company I look to for lifters. Also, you MUST run a fortified break in oil to break in the cam or you WILL have multiple lobe failures in the first minutes because the shelf oils have been depleted of the ZDDP additive. After that, you can run Royal Purple oil without need of any ZDDP additives and you'll be fine.
The only break in oil I use is called Brad Penn Break In Oil.
The rings also need this stuff in order to seal up. And there is a HUGE difference in leak down test results you'll see on a new build based on wether or not you use a fortified break in oil for the start up or not. Especially if the idiot honing the block honed it gently and slick which 90% of them do.
Don't forget to use a cam thrust button as well. Likely need the short one rather than the long one.
Msg me if interested. I'll be here.
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