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Chevy 350 motor questions?
Ok guys some of you have been with me for a couple weeks helpin me build all my stuff heres my last questions before build. Ok I have a 70 350 40 over. new crank new domed speed pro pistons with a 3.50 cc dome. Lunati cam 230/230 at 50 degrees. 480 lift. 1.5 roler tip rockers. Edelebrok e street heads aluminum 202 and 160 64 cc chamber. Rpm performer intake. holley 650 double pumper mexhanical secondaries. Fel pro .041 gasket. Long tube headers with 2.5 pipe. Standard deck height and clearance. msd ignition and wires. Ok what is my compression ratio? What is my horse power and torque? how much can can I up my rocker ratio before Interfear with piston valve clearance and all that I was thinking 1.6 because it adds a little lift. Idk is it worth doing 1.6 cause ill have to do new push rods and all that. How much hp does it add? and will I need to run race gas and or octane boost.
You have a big prob here man. Your trying to build a monster with some parts and a mild one with other parts. This total combo is NOT going to work for you.
Your compression will be 10.7587:1. Theres alot of cufussion about compression. Yes that is too high for most people to run on pump fuel because they do not know how to build and tune for high compression pump fuel cars.
Yes that compression and higher can be ran on pump 93 octane but not as you have listed.
To lessen the risk of detonation, you need to tighten the quench which will give you more compression but it's like free octane.
About .060" all benifits from quench is lost. With a tighter .035 to .040" quench, you can run more compression with out ping. You can google David vizzard swirl and quench and find a good write u on how this works
Quench is the height between top of piston, to bottom of head with
Stock deck puts piston .025" in hole, your .041" gaskets added to that puts you at .066" quench.
Use a set of fel pro 1094 head gasket thats 4.100" x .015" thick.
This will now put you at a very high 11.595:1 compression.. Don't use your cam.
Even at 10.76:1 that cam is too small and will cause the engine to have too much cyl pressure and will ping like crazy on pump gas.
The cam is one place 90% of the people screw up on. The cam will change your engines DCR and cyl pressure. To read up on it, google Pat Kelly DCR. He went into great detail how the cam's opening an closing points change the real "running" compression of engine.
To cam it right you wll need something like a 302/310 adv., 268/278@.050", 108 LSA solid flat tappet cam.
Howards #112331 $110
But with .562"/.570" lift on a solid flat cam you will need the direct lube solid lifters with the EDM lazer burnt oiling hole. Howards #651080DL $120
Now your valve springs, rockers and maybe pushrods will all have to be upgraded.
That cam is going to need a atleast a 1.437" or larger dia dual spring with atleast 135# @ 1.750" seat and 285# @ 1.250" valve
Your heads has .550" lift max 1.25" springs. Howards does made a 1.25” single drop in racing spring that will work for you. #98213 $80
They are 145# @ 1.750” seat, 345# @ 1.250” open
Or you can take heads apart and have a machine shop to machine the spring seat for a 1.45" spring.
Your stamp steel rockers will not take that kind of spring pressure or lift. They will break. You will need a good brand, billet alum or stainless steel full roller. I run Howards $220 rockers on mine with a .570/.579" lift cam. They are guaranteed for life for use with .800" lift and 800# spring pressure or less. Scorpion rockers are as well.
Next is the heads. You bought the WRONG heads for this type build. Those are entry level 400 HP mild engine heads. Small intake runners (185cc) to build low RPM torque, lower flowing ports (for aftermarket heads) etc. It's a great head, but only for a 9.5:1 or so 350 with like a 220/230@.050 cam max
They flow about like a stock set of vortec heads.
For this high compression build you really should have went with Brodix IK200 heads which was only $200 more than the E streets.
Even with all this wild parts, your still only looking at about 480-490 HP cause the heads are holding you back. Step up to the brodix IK200 on this same build and your looking about 540-550 HP
This new combo will run on 93 octane now, if you jet the carb on the rich side and pull timing out to about 30-32* total. It will need a 3500 stall min torque converter if auto and a 4000 would be better. It will need a min of 3.73 rear gears but 3.89 to 4.11 would be better.
Power brakes WILL NOT work with that big of cam. You will only have 2-3" HG of vac at idle. You will need to convert to manual brakes, or hydro boost brake system or install a vac pump to use power brakes.
Engine ill not idle under about 1100-1200 rpm
To tell you the honest truth. I would buy new pistons and forget the domes. Get you a 4 valve releft flat top piston with about 6 to 8 cc dish volume to the valve pockets.
Use the 1094 head gaskets. This will put you at about 10.0-10.25:1 compression.
And you could use the cam you have, although you will leave power on the table with that cam. Your heads will like a dual pattern cam better with 8-12* more duration on exhaust side than intake.
I would use a 216/228@.050" cam with a 112 LSA an around .453/.480" lift. Put a set of 1.6 ratio rockers on it and call it done.
This much cheaper to build, easier to run combo will still pull great numbers. About 390-410 HP with around 430-440 ft lbs torque. Be mild mannered, run on pump 93 fuel, work with most of the parts you have now
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